War Museum - Gen Kreipe
Posted 15 April 2005 - 07:18 PM
The little War Museum that I have referred to in ExploreCrete is in Azogires, about 10km or so from Paleochora. Go north towards Kandanos, and take the first proper road right when you are well out of town. When you get to Azogires youíll find the museum down a track to your right. It is signposted Ė just Ė and is splendidly situated in a disused monastery. It seems to be open when itís open Ė but I gather that you can usually find somebody in one of the two tavernas who can let you in.
The buildings were bought and converted to a war museum by an old lady. I believe she is from a rich family in the area, and they own amongst much else also one of the tavernas. Worth going to the museum just for the setting!
There are quite a few exhibits about the various liberation battles the Cretans have fought, not least of course all the years of struggle against the Turkish occupants.
However, there is quite a bit from WW2 as well, including quite a bit of memorabilia from and about Patrick Leigh Fermor. I donít have any recollection specifically about the famous Kreipe (thatís the correct spelling, by the way) abduction, but of course this cross-island tour didnít get too close to this part of Crete.
But be warned: exhibits are only marked and written about in Greek Ė so brush up on your Greek written language, or see if you can find somebody who can translate for you.
When my wife and I were in Paleochora last autumn I picked up a couple of excellent books about the German occupation etc by a Cretan by the name of George Harokopos; he was there, he took part, he saw it all. One is ĎThe Fortress Crete 1941-1944í (ISBN 960-7296-35-4), and the other is ĎThe Abduction of General Kreipeí (ISBN 960-86883-3-7). I recommend them both!
As I said, Iím sorry to have taken so long to reply, but if thereís anything else I can possibly provide then please do not hesitate to contact me again: my next response will be quicker than this one!
Posted 16 April 2005 - 04:04 PM
Posted 17 April 2005 - 01:28 PM
Of course another road to Sougia is the E4 walking path.
Anyway, I'd recommend this little museum to you. It is really interesting, even if like me you don't pick up much information from the written explanations.
Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:50 PM
thanks for the info on the museum
Posted 08 August 2007 - 03:43 PM
Posted 10 August 2007 - 01:08 PM
Of course I shall be happy to oblige with any errors I may inadvertently have made.
first of all its 7 kilometers from paleochora - Well, I wrote about 10km or so from Paleochora, so I stand by that, but more precision is of course welcome. Apparently, it is possible to walk cross country from Anidri to Azogires. Do you know about this walk? That would make a nice all-day outing if you came from Paleochora.
The explanation that the buildings now belong to an old lady was told to me in Azogires probably about five years ago. Unfortunately I don't speak Greek properly, and it was explained in broken English, and it is entirely possible that I misunderstood.
I wasn't aware that monasteries cannot be dispensed off. I would have thought that if this were the case, then they would belong to the Church, and not to "the people", as you write?
If I wrote Timenia elsewhere, then I'm sure you will forgive me a typing error. Of course I know the spelling of the name of the village and the eponymous soft drinks company, and I have also had the pleasure of meeting one of the directors.
I notice that you don't mention any discrepancies in my description of the museum itself, but if there's anything else that needs correcting then please do let me know.
Next time I'm in the area I shall try to get up to Azogires to say hello to you.
Posted 10 August 2007 - 10:20 PM
We also had some very good meals in the village.
A good idea is also to choose the small road on the right side just after you passed the village back to Paleochora.
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Posted 10 August 2007 - 10:51 PM
Posted 11 August 2007 - 10:37 AM
Perhaps, with your close connections to the great Paterakis andarte family, you may be able to help me with some information. In 2005, I assisted some friends who set out to follow the footsteps of the abductors of Genereal Kreipe. We started this particular journey at the point on the Archanes to Knossos road where the abduction took place, and followed the route as closely as possible to the beach at Rhodakino where the party left with Kreipe. We had done a lot of research into the various locations and had the personal backing and help from Paddy Leigh Fermor (the only surviving participant). A short report on the adventure is on this website at http://www.explorecr...eipe-follow.htm
In April 2008, the same group, perhaps with some additional new people, intend to revisit the route and this time start not from the abduction point but, if possible from Cairo as did your uncle and the original boat partly led by Billy Moss. If they cannot come all the way from Cairo then we will have to arrange a more local boat trip ending up at the right landing cove.
I first became interested in this story 17 years ago when I read Ill Met by Moonlight and decided to see if the beach I had been using on my first holiday to Crete was in fact the same beach that Moss and party landed at on 4th April 1944. Nine years later I decided , after countless enquiries, that it was most likely another beach a short distance away. This beach is known locally as Dermati. If you leave Tsoutsouros and travel east, after a few kilometres the road suddenly drops down to sea level. That area is known as Dermati beach, the river Dermati is east towards the middle. Just west of the point where the road drops down to sea level is a small ravine leading to a small cove. For many years I was convinced this was the landing beach. It fitted several descriptions including being between two known German outposts at Tstoutsouros and Keratokambos.
Now a problem has arisen! I have seen a map belonging to Paddy Leigh Fermor, it is his original map from those times and it is endorsed at various places in his hand. There are some marks in the area of Tsoutsouros which suggest that the landing beach may have been west of Tsoutsouros, not east as I suspected. (there is some ambiguity with the marks though) They point to a cove about 3 km west of Maridaki. There is a very steep path out of the cove. George Harokopos calls the cove ALYKI but Akr Alikaporita (as shown on the Harms Verlag map) is further west still.
I know from some of Paddy's own private papers that he and some others had been waiting for the arrival of Moss and others in the Monastery of the Holy Apostle (may also be known as the Twelve Apostles- Yannis has searched a special monastery publication with no result) some 3 kilometres or so from the landing beach. He was there as a guest of Archimandrite Theophylaktos. The Monastery is proving difficult to find - (some say it is now in private hands- can that be so?) but knowing it's exact location might be a help to us.
I, and my group are very keen to know exactly which part of the area the Moss party arrived at by boat and we are having some difficulty in getting information which can be confirmed. There are many reasons for this, I checked with Paddy many years ago and he told me that, because the area was in a prohibited zone, the andartes only went to the beaches at night and were gone by daylight so they never actually saw the beaches in good light. They were guided in by trusted shepherds (Harokpos says a Vasili Knoios was their protector in the area). Also, people talked of places in more general terms most accounts say that Moss landed at Tsoutsouros when it should mean the wider area of Tsoutsouros.
There is also a problem that some of the records must be wrong- when one says this and another that, which is right? I believe Harokopos is mistaken in some parts of his otherwise very good book. He says, for example, that the party left from Peristeres beach at Rhodakino, but the place does not match the description Paddy gave us when we talked to him (I think it is the east side of Rhodakino beach by a distinctive rock and not beyond the western headland a few kilometres away) He may be mistaken about Alyki. I dont think anyone deliberately intends to mislead, memories fade over the years and errors creep in and grow. For every person I have found who says it is this place, another can be found to say it is that place!
Anyway, with your family contacts you may know bits about the route that your uncle took better than most. If so, I, and I am sure many others, would be very pleased to learn anything you can add to the story.
I will be coming to Crete in October to try and find out more and I hope to be abe to take a boat trip along the area around Tsoutsouros to see if that might give us a clue. Sadly I am not sure I will have time to get to the alfa cafe for one of the famous omelletes!
If anyone other than Lucky has any firm information, then I would obviously also be delighted to hear from them.
Likewise I am not too proud as to not to listen to any suggested lines of enquiry, though I believe I have tried most!
My thanks in anticipation!
Posted 12 August 2007 - 11:29 AM
Posted 23 August 2007 - 12:56 PM
I have tasted your omelettes (Sofia's Omelette, if I remember the name correctly) and they are great. I hope you will keep cooking as good as you have been doing it until now, but please do something about your writing. Creating sentences and using a few capital letters where it is necessary, it would allow us to enjoy your postings a lot more.
Posted 11 September 2007 - 04:51 PM
Posted 11 September 2007 - 05:15 PM