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War Museum - Gen Kreipe


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#1 Henry Hooray

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 07:18 PM

[This is a reply to a reader here, who asked me privately about this subject. Unfortunately has changed his Sneakemail address since he wrote to me. Hoping that this (a) will reach him via the forum, and (:D may conceivably be of interest to others too, I have taken the liberty of posting my reply to him here].


The little War Museum that I have referred to in ExploreCrete is in Azogires, about 10km or so from Paleochora. Go north towards Kandanos, and take the first proper road right when you are well out of town. When you get to Azogires youll find the museum down a track to your right. It is signposted just and is splendidly situated in a disused monastery. It seems to be open when its open but I gather that you can usually find somebody in one of the two tavernas who can let you in.

The buildings were bought and converted to a war museum by an old lady. I believe she is from a rich family in the area, and they own amongst much else also one of the tavernas. Worth going to the museum just for the setting!

There are quite a few exhibits about the various liberation battles the Cretans have fought, not least of course all the years of struggle against the Turkish occupants.

However, there is quite a bit from WW2 as well, including quite a bit of memorabilia from and about Patrick Leigh Fermor. I dont have any recollection specifically about the famous Kreipe (thats the correct spelling, by the way) abduction, but of course this cross-island tour didnt get too close to this part of Crete.

But be warned: exhibits are only marked and written about in Greek so brush up on your Greek written language, or see if you can find somebody who can translate for you.

When my wife and I were in Paleochora last autumn I picked up a couple of excellent books about the German occupation etc by a Cretan by the name of George Harokopos; he was there, he took part, he saw it all. One is The Fortress Crete 1941-1944 (ISBN 960-7296-35-4), and the other is The Abduction of General Kreipe (ISBN 960-86883-3-7). I recommend them both!

As I said, Im sorry to have taken so long to reply, but if theres anything else I can possibly provide then please do not hesitate to contact me again: my next response will be quicker than this one!

HTH, Henry.

#2 harribobs

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Posted 16 April 2005 - 04:04 PM

IIRC the signs are in greek as well, i have passed it ( that's the road to Sougia isn't it) but i haven't looked at it

#3 Henry Hooray

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Posted 17 April 2005 - 01:28 PM

Yes, it is on the road to Sougia, Timenea, and the back-road to Chania from Paleochora (I won't recommend this route here, because it is gloriously beautiful in places, and I don't want it too crowded - and I don't want too many people to know about picking up wonderful chestnuts from the road in Sept/Oct either).

Of course another road to Sougia is the E4 walking path.

Anyway, I'd recommend this little museum to you. It is really interesting, even if like me you don't pick up much information from the written explanations.

Henry.

#4 harribobs

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Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:50 PM

i agree with you about the route, there's a field of poppies on a high point above paleohora that we always stop at in May

thanks for the info on the museum

#5 lucky

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Posted 08 August 2007 - 03:43 PM

dear mr. hooray please corect everything that you wrote about azogires first of all its 7 kilometers from paleochora 2nd the museum was not and never will be sold to any reach lady who does not exist anyway the museum was made by the union of athenian azogiriens and the monastery aloud them to use the monks rooms the items inside the monastery do not belong to any reach old lady who does not exist anyway they are donated by the people of this village and they are the property of the people how do i know this i am a resident here and i am the owner of the alfa cafe in azogires and assure you that nore i or the only other cafe in this village have anything to do with the museum. monasterys cannot be sold in greece learn some rules i dont know who you spoke with i only hope that you speak greek cause besides me there is no other greek in this village who speaks einglish i would be glad to fill you in in any info about my village for iknow every bit of it so please corect you writing ps its temenia not timenia as you write in another article and in azogires there are many things to see such ass caves water falls forest and many many churches there is also a small hotel for any doubts contact me at [email protected] good day to you sir

#6 Henry Hooray

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Posted 10 August 2007 - 01:08 PM

Hi Lucky

Of course I shall be happy to oblige with any errors I may inadvertently have made.

first of all its 7 kilometers from paleochora - Well, I wrote about 10km or so from Paleochora, so I stand by that, but more precision is of course welcome. Apparently, it is possible to walk cross country from Anidri to Azogires. Do you know about this walk? That would make a nice all-day outing if you came from Paleochora.

The explanation that the buildings now belong to an old lady was told to me in Azogires probably about five years ago. Unfortunately I don't speak Greek properly, and it was explained in broken English, and it is entirely possible that I misunderstood.

I wasn't aware that monasteries cannot be dispensed off. I would have thought that if this were the case, then they would belong to the Church, and not to "the people", as you write?

If I wrote Timenia elsewhere, then I'm sure you will forgive me a typing error. Of course I know the spelling of the name of the village and the eponymous soft drinks company, and I have also had the pleasure of meeting one of the directors.

I notice that you don't mention any discrepancies in my description of the museum itself, but if there's anything else that needs correcting then please do let me know.

Next time I'm in the area I shall try to get up to Azogires to say hello to you.

Henry.

#7 lars

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Posted 10 August 2007 - 10:20 PM

Azogires is well worth a visit not only because of the museum but also for the caves, the big trees and the water running through the village. It is very green.
We also had some very good meals in the village.
A good idea is also to choose the small road on the right side just after you passed the village back to Paleochora.
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#8 lucky

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Posted 10 August 2007 - 10:51 PM

dear mr. hooray thank you for responding i will buy you a drink when you come and a sofias special omellete which was the invention of my grandmother in the hippie days in order to feed 20 or 30 hippies she made this omellete for them for free cause they had no money that is why alfa cafe is famous today because of my grandparents i am proud to be here so when you come here you willl one omellete also free just like the hippies as for the ten kilometers please tel the people 7 to 8 so they will come up otherwise they will say its to long about the walk anidri azogires it takes about an hour its a beautifull way but its also nice from azogires to anidri because than they can walk down the anidri gorge to the beach also about another hour if you like you can email me an adress and i will send you a map of azogires with most of the places to visit here and believe me there are alot about the museum the rooms still belong to the church its the relics inside that belong to the people of azogires but if you need any information about the items inside the museum i would gladly help you or about the abduction of general creiper for my uncle manolis paterakis was one of the abductors of the general and my hall family was involved in the war both koukoutsaki and pateraki clens my grandmother rescued 30 women and children from being executed by atacking the german placing her own life at risk so to make a long story short if you need any local information i am at your disposal thank you for taking the time to read this

#9 Tim

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Posted 11 August 2007 - 10:37 AM

Lucky

Perhaps, with your close connections to the great Paterakis andarte family, you may be able to help me with some information. In 2005, I assisted some friends who set out to follow the footsteps of the abductors of Genereal Kreipe. We started this particular journey at the point on the Archanes to Knossos road where the abduction took place, and followed the route as closely as possible to the beach at Rhodakino where the party left with Kreipe. We had done a lot of research into the various locations and had the personal backing and help from Paddy Leigh Fermor (the only surviving participant). A short report on the adventure is on this website at http://www.explorecr...eipe-follow.htm

In April 2008, the same group, perhaps with some additional new people, intend to revisit the route and this time start not from the abduction point but, if possible from Cairo as did your uncle and the original boat partly led by Billy Moss. If they cannot come all the way from Cairo then we will have to arrange a more local boat trip ending up at the right landing cove.

I first became interested in this story 17 years ago when I read Ill Met by Moonlight and decided to see if the beach I had been using on my first holiday to Crete was in fact the same beach that Moss and party landed at on 4th April 1944. Nine years later I decided , after countless enquiries, that it was most likely another beach a short distance away. This beach is known locally as Dermati. If you leave Tsoutsouros and travel east, after a few kilometres the road suddenly drops down to sea level. That area is known as Dermati beach, the river Dermati is east towards the middle. Just west of the point where the road drops down to sea level is a small ravine leading to a small cove. For many years I was convinced this was the landing beach. It fitted several descriptions including being between two known German outposts at Tstoutsouros and Keratokambos.

Now a problem has arisen! I have seen a map belonging to Paddy Leigh Fermor, it is his original map from those times and it is endorsed at various places in his hand. There are some marks in the area of Tsoutsouros which suggest that the landing beach may have been west of Tsoutsouros, not east as I suspected. (there is some ambiguity with the marks though) They point to a cove about 3 km west of Maridaki. There is a very steep path out of the cove. George Harokopos calls the cove ALYKI but Akr Alikaporita (as shown on the Harms Verlag map) is further west still.

I know from some of Paddy's own private papers that he and some others had been waiting for the arrival of Moss and others in the Monastery of the Holy Apostle (may also be known as the Twelve Apostles- Yannis has searched a special monastery publication with no result) some 3 kilometres or so from the landing beach. He was there as a guest of Archimandrite Theophylaktos. The Monastery is proving difficult to find - (some say it is now in private hands- can that be so?) but knowing it's exact location might be a help to us.

I, and my group are very keen to know exactly which part of the area the Moss party arrived at by boat and we are having some difficulty in getting information which can be confirmed. There are many reasons for this, I checked with Paddy many years ago and he told me that, because the area was in a prohibited zone, the andartes only went to the beaches at night and were gone by daylight so they never actually saw the beaches in good light. They were guided in by trusted shepherds (Harokpos says a Vasili Knoios was their protector in the area). Also, people talked of places in more general terms most accounts say that Moss landed at Tsoutsouros when it should mean the wider area of Tsoutsouros.

There is also a problem that some of the records must be wrong- when one says this and another that, which is right? I believe Harokopos is mistaken in some parts of his otherwise very good book. He says, for example, that the party left from Peristeres beach at Rhodakino, but the place does not match the description Paddy gave us when we talked to him (I think it is the east side of Rhodakino beach by a distinctive rock and not beyond the western headland a few kilometres away) He may be mistaken about Alyki. I dont think anyone deliberately intends to mislead, memories fade over the years and errors creep in and grow. For every person I have found who says it is this place, another can be found to say it is that place!

Anyway, with your family contacts you may know bits about the route that your uncle took better than most. If so, I, and I am sure many others, would be very pleased to learn anything you can add to the story.

I will be coming to Crete in October to try and find out more and I hope to be abe to take a boat trip along the area around Tsoutsouros to see if that might give us a clue. Sadly I am not sure I will have time to get to the alfa cafe for one of the famous omelletes!

If anyone other than Lucky has any firm information, then I would obviously also be delighted to hear from them.

Likewise I am not too proud as to not to listen to any suggested lines of enquiry, though I believe I have tried most!

My thanks in anticipation!

Tim

#10 Tim

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Posted 12 August 2007 - 11:29 AM

Further to the above, I owe Harokopos an apology! Last night I found a file in amongst all those that I had copied from the National Atchives in Kew and it gave a map reference for the point at which the Navy should pick up Paddy, Kreipe et al. It was a point some half a mile off Peristeres beach which is beyong the promentory at the west end of Rhodakino beach. It may not match Paddy's description as well as the other part but the evidence seems indisputable - and that means my part of adventurers did end their walk at the right spot!

#11 yannis_s

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Posted 23 August 2007 - 12:56 PM

Dear Lucky,
I have tasted your omelettes (Sofia's Omelette, if I remember the name correctly) and they are great. I hope you will keep cooking as good as you have been doing it until now, but please do something about your writing. Creating sentences and using a few capital letters where it is necessary, it would allow us to enjoy your postings a lot more.
Yannis Samatas
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#12 lucky

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Posted 11 September 2007 - 04:51 PM

Yiasou mr.Yiannis .Thank you very much for correcting me . because i am new in the computer world .i got the computer last year and it took eleven months. for the conection from ote net . and here in the Village there is no one to show me how to work .A computer besides some tourists who help me sometimes. So basicly i am starting now and i can use all the help i can get. Have a nice day sir.

#13 lucky

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Posted 11 September 2007 - 05:15 PM

This is a message for mr. Tim dear sir i am sorry for taking so long to respond to your question But a little the greek vacations in August which brings a lot of work in the cafe a little the Stress from the fires all over Greece it took me a while to respond i spoke with my uncle Yiannis .Manolis Paterakis son and he says it was in Rodakino and he told me that if you like when you come He can show you the exact point my email is [email protected] you can Contact me and i will Introduce you to my Uncle and you can talk and record anything you like Thank you very much for your patience With all my respect.Lucky