36 replies to this topic

[Brook]

I have had a love of Crete ever since I went there for the first time in 1996 with my wife (as her origin is from Crete). We have returned for a total of three times up until summer of 2000 when we stopped going anywhere... life events, kids, etc...
I have always read and tried to follow the changes and stories from this great website and others about Crete with the hope that one day we would return as a family to this beloved island.
Our fondness has always been Western Crete, Chania but this is not to say that I have much experience with other parts of the island.
My question is, How has Crete changed since 2000?

[Julie]

You will find many changes, especially on the coast west of Chania which is the area you say you know best. I travelled to Chania from Paleochora last week, and after the bus turned right at Tavronitis the next half hour was spent crawlng through a concrete jungle. I had been along that coast road eight years ago, in January 2000, and it was already heavily developed since the mid-1990s, but it is now unrecognisable. If you enjoyed that area 12 years ago, I can almost assure you that you won't like it now.

When I first visited that nice coastline in 1984, it was almost empty: a few little separate villages. It's tragic that that it should have been so wrecked. I'm sure that if you get away from the coast you'll still find peaceful spots in the hills behind it, not very far away, but I don't think it would be very pleasant to stay anywhere along the coast.

Do some research: there are lots of areas - the villages of the south west coast, for example - that still have a long way to go before they can be said to be "developed". The eastern part of the island too, and of course almost anywhere inland will be fine. But if you want to be near the sea, I would avoid the coast west of Chania.

[Brook]

Thanks for the reply. I heard the same things you are saying from other family members that were there last summer and I could not believe it. They particulary mentioned the areas of Kalamaki, Agia Marina, Platanias, Agia Apostoli and Daratsos, which are the areas I prefer to be in when in Crete.
I do like 'action' when in Crete but do not like the concrete jungle and overbuilt resorts that are next to one another and reduced peace and tranquility. I am afraid that by your account, things are already headed there or already there!

[Julie]

I'm afraid they're not "headed in that direction": they arrived there several years ago. I really wouldn't take the chance, especially not if you liked the area before.

You have been warned. Do some research and choose another area. The Kalamaki/Chryssi Akti/Agia Marina/Platanias stretch is Spoiled, with capital S. It is hideously ugly, and very depressing.

It's a shame.

[Tim]

I would endorse Julie's comments - though her considerable knowledge hardly needs endorsing. The area is to my mind, not that different from east of Heraklion and best avoided if you are looking for something that is not a 'costa'.
I just hope that devastation doesn't continue to spread around the island.

[Brook]

Thanks for the comments but do you feel they may be a bit harsh? Devastation? Hideously ugly?? I know that the area has recently been 'overdeveloped' but it still is Crete! Would you say it has become as common as Kokkino Horio where all the concrete prefab houses are going up and resemble ant colonies? I know it has been a while since I have returned but I am starting to really worry now about my beloved western Crete! Does this mean going further West to Maleme, Tavronitis and Voukolies?

[DaveW.]

..unfortunately I don't think folk are being too harsh. The coastal 'strip' is being spoilt by over-building in order that tourists can be accomodated, but you can soon get away from this by moving slightly inland where the 'real' Crete can still be found, although this 'belt' is moving westward slowly. But not only do we, the tourist, bring the need for extra accomodation we also bring with us our materialism and this is having an affect on the attitudes of some of the younger generation of Cretans who are losing some of the ways/beliefs of their parents and grandparents. This however is not just happening in Crete, the attitudes of young people around the world are changing as we become a more materialistic world.
I've said it before and will probably say it again but us northern Europeans find places that we consider 'paradise' throughout the world and then spoil the very paradise we have found by bringing our attitudes, ways of life, even language to those very places that are away from it all and by our very presence, lose what we found.

[Brook]

Well stated Dave. I can agree with your analysis about the young generation of all cultures in general. All I can hope for is that I have instilled my beliefs and respect for others to my kids so they can grow to be good people.
As for Western Crete, I hope that upon my return, she will be as beautiful as I recall, with views out towards Theodorou and endless beaches. Can you blame the tourists for wanting to share in such a wonderful place? I just hope that it does not turn into another Malia!

[Tim]

I used to hate the holiday programs that delighted in finding, and exposing, the hidden paradises - when it was somewhere that I used to enjoy. I always regarded such exposes as the kiss of death!
I am also a little selfish in that I will be very circumspect in who I might tell of a few places that I hope will survive the onslaught for a few more years yet!
Lord, I'm turning into a grump old sod!

[Tinks]

Having stayed in Tavronitis last year I can safely say it is still quiet and not overdeveloped. I don't think it will be there due to the large pebbly beach. I hope to return there again soon and find it to be as quiet as I found it to be last time. I'd hate to see it change.

I've stayed in Stalis 3 times now and I'd not go back there again. Far too built up and full of people wanting "british pubs - showing football" and the like. As for Malia and Hersonissos... urgh! My idea of hell.

[Brook]

I love the fact that Crete offers so much to so many. I still like to be home based in the west and travel abroad for day trips. I enjoy people watching but have a low tolerance for unruly arrogance which sometimes comes with excessive drinking. (insert unruly area here...)

Tim, feel free to send me an IM letting me on your little secrets! As I am still a working stiff trying to obtain financial freedom, I will not interfere with your hidden treasures as my travels to Crete will be limited until I reach my goals!

[Wim]

I agree with Dave and Tim and respect the latter for being so honest in his observations.

And I'm afraid Brook that indeed Crete offers too much for many who can't handle it and think of Crete as just another cheap holiday destination.

We, seem all to have found ours anyway.

[DaveW.]

Brook,

I'm just reading a book about Crete in 1941 and came across this description, that I thought you might appreciate, of the conditions to be found there at that time. " Cretan customs at this time were almost biblical. It was quite common on arriving at a Cretan home, for the lady of the house to remove one's shoes and socks and bathe one's feet in warm water and olive oil".
The author also desribes how he met a local who could remember it taking two days to travel from Hora Sfakion to Chania by donkey.
Perhaps change has not been that bad after all!!

[Brook]

Thanks for the passage Dave, although I think the use of olive oil is better used in a horiatiki salad!
I love Crete and everything about it, especially the heart of its people. I can recall countless times during my travels whereby strangers showed over the top kindness. This to me is the true Crete! I know the landscape is changing and being overrun by large hotels and restaurants and such but the heart of Crete to me is still alive and well!

[Julie]

Brook

It's worse than Kokkino Chorio, and as bad as Malia. I know you don't want to believe it of an area you enjoyed so much several years ago, and if you haven't seen it for yourself as I did the other day, it's hard to believe, but "devastation" and "hideously ugly" are restrained descriptions. Sad and sickened was how I felt on that half-hour bus ride.

Yes, you will do better further west, although Maleme and Tavronitis are beginning to show signs of unfortunate development too. Better still, go further west, past Kissamos: the far West coast is still, as far as I know, pretty undeveloped.

[harribobs]

and it's spreading south, work started last year on the Plakias panorama apartments, concrete monstrosities more suited to Benidorm plus worse still, work started this week on a time share complex right by the beach ....

[Brook]

WOW! say it isn't so! Like I said before our cousins went last summer and told us we would not recognize West of Chania but I had no idea how much. When I look at pictures and websites for hotels I still recognize the area but maybe they are dated. We are planning on going next summer but am getting a tad worried of what I am going to find! My father in law keeps telling me to consider fixing the village house in Voukolies but I insist on telling him that I eventually want to purchase a summer home in kalamaki but he may be right after all.

[Julie]

Well, you will be able to see it and judge for yourself if you go there, but my guess is you'll be looking to buy in some other area. At least the answers to your original question will have prepared you a bit for what you're going to find.

[Wim]

To show the moderate changes that took place in my little village within the last 25 years. As you can see the main character is preserved rather well.

1979



2004


And btw Brook. Olive oil is a real tread for your skin. I use it in combination with nivea balm and some "bite" without alcohol.
I use the latter for other treatment

[Brook]

Stunning pictures, thanks Wim. The beauty is still in tact! Where is this exactly??
I knew olive oil has been used in many ways but this is a first!